Detective Lilly Rush from 'Cold Case'

Detective Lilly Rush (Kathryn Morris) on CBS' Cold Case Sundays has a pared-down look that befits women who love no-fuss dressing and want to look great without working too hard.

"For her cop look, it's that rigid, tough character," Conan Castro, the show's costume designer, says from Spain. "It's quite intriguing to find out who she is behind the walls she puts up. Little by little, you start to learn about her history and why she is so tough. She wears suits. We do have other female cast who tend to wear something more feminine. Lilly Rush doesn't. She is more tough, one of the guys."

Initially, Castro, who has been with show since the first episode six years ago, says Lilly wore Dolce & Gabbana and Theory suits.

Castro, though, is a true costume designer and sews for Lilly. He makes some of her pantsuits, buying materials in Los Angeles at B. Black and ISW.

"When you actually get to pick it up and move it, you get an idea of how it will drape," he says.

He also changed the character's palette.

"Originally it was the cool colors," he says. "She could only wear light blues and grays. You can only do so many light blue shirts, only so many gray shirts. Even with little details, you couldn't tell on television. I added more vibrant colors -- she has light skin -- giving her burgundies, purples, turquoises. She looks amazing in those."

Sitting in the restaurant of a Manhattan hotel, Morris also talks about her character's colors.

"Because of the template of the show, the blues, grays, colds, that was the old design of the show," she says. "Those are the palette of the costume, and when you are a detective, you do wear suits. I've always thought she's professional and presents herself as a seasoned detective. She's also a lady."

As a lady, she wears tailored blouses from Dolce & Gabbana, Theory, BCBG, Escada and Guess.

Castro shops for her at Target, Macy's and Bloomingdales.

"Everything is altered to fit her well," Castro says.

Shoes are always 1-inch heels, he says. Originally she had Donald J Pliner, and now he shops online at www.zappos.com.

She uses a Tumi bag. On the rare occasion Lilly wears a dress, Castro puts her in the wonderful standby, a Diane von Furstenberg.

When Lilly wears jeans, she favors Diesel brand.

"I am hoping what I have done with the character is given her more of a feminine style," Castro says.

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